"Ai Marmi" in Trastevere you can eat pizza like a roman citizen

If you say “Obitorio”, possibly the Roman way with two Bs, you can rest assured that everyone in Trastevere understands that you are talking about a historic pizzeria that owes its name to the marble tables that are lined-up like in a morgue.

Its official name is “Ai Marmi”, but some people prefer Panattoni, which is what it says on the sign outside.

Its nickname is not very inviting, but if you are looking for a thin and crunchy pizza, so Roman pizza, you are definitely in the right place.

The place is austere, no tablecloths or comfortable chairs.

Everyone eats seated closely and squeezed-in while waiting for the waiter to bring plates, cutlery, glasses and a bunch of paper napkins to the table.

At this stage you lay your own table and order the most classic menu.

In my case it’s always the same: supplì al telefono, calzone and a beer.


The fundamental rule in places like “Ai Marmi” is to not experiment and to rely on timeless dishes.

The fried cod fillets and pizza are also very good.

L’Obitorio is one of those places that have an undisputable asset: speed.

As far as quality in concerned, forget excellent raw ingredients, after all it’s a working-class pizzeria and fully respects the quality-price ratio.

Going back to speed, just a few minutes after ordering your dinner will be served. Real and rare supplì (the ones from Angelo Dandini are not in the competition), made of rice that is still slightly crunchy and with stringy mozzarella that earned it the name of “Supplì al telefono”, because mozzarella figuratively becomes the telephone wire between the receiver and the base.

Slightly greasy but tasty and sincere in flavour, another category compared to the frozen ones most pizzeria serve.

To appreciate them fully one needs to wash them down with a frozen beer.


The wood oven is in full sight the pizza makers are constantly at work.

Maybe this is why the calzone at “Ai Marmi” is unique and inimitable.

The crunchy dough outside is the perfect casing for an explosive filling. The abundant mozzarella marries with the prosciutto crudo merging into a filling dressed with egg yolk.

And it’s the egg which makes a difference; I don’t know any other place in Rome with an equally extravagant calzone.


The neon lights brighten the hall with a retro 1970s touch and the bright signs remind me of when, as a little girl, I listened to my father’s stories about that place with a macabre name.


I swallow a mouthful and while grasping a glass I raise my eyes to the ceiling.

For many years I have wondered why a poker card has been stuck up there near the fan.

I drink and in my head I come up with a striking vision: a game that ended late; a lost bet or just a lucky charm.

I hear talking and look at the people milling around the entrance.

It’s time to leave my place to someone else.

I pay my bill, prices have recently increased, and leave a tip for the waiters that never stop.

The Obitorio is like this...always full except on Wednesday.

Tags: Pizza / Trastevere / Margherita / Cod / Rome /

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