New Traditionalism: when the only comparison is between good and bad cooking

Years ago I fell in love with Jonny Cash, the man in black, of his American Recording and of his croaky voice that shook classic standards as underground masterpieces in country music, then I started to look around and everyone, and I mean everyone, had a beard, solid shoes and robust trousers.

Films, the good ones, discussed stories and traditions, while books rediscovered the pleasure of narrative and solidity. When dining out, I started to bore of foams and low temperatures: I was looking for flavours and products, technique was returning to be a means and I started to carefully choose the trattorie I would go to. The wines that made me salivate were increasingly classic and artisan productions, they were well suited to the meal I was eating and weren't there just there to be contemplated in the glass.

The intolerance for stardust, the excess of wine preservatives and unnatural ingredients started to become unbearable, the desire for truth turned into an almost physical and urgent need.

Then I red this by our sparkling friends and my brain started to connect.

So it's not just us here at Spaghetti, we're not crazy: on the opposite we are trendy, if we are told so by Frizzi Frizzi it must be true, as they certify trendy things in Italy and we want to thank them officially for the help they have given to Spaghetti. So Mothers-Mamme becomes a pledge: we thought we were weird and even slanted, but we actually risk being a la page.

And this is it, because New Traditionalism is our desire to look at the country and its cuisine; it's the possibility to reconnect that frayed relationship between gastronomic society and the world, the enormous distance between us Gargantuan-fixated and reality.

Last year a study among American tour operators declared that wine and food is the most common reason why people travel to Italy, more (although only marginally) than art and its masterpieces, but which foods and wines do you think these are, the strong Sicilian chardonnays or the groomed super-Tuscans? And with regards to food: do you think an American comes to Rome without tasting amatriciana or tortellini in Emilia?

Grannies and mothers are no longer a burden, but a heritage one can use as a starting point to display a unique richness, not something to be ashamed of because it gives an air of ancient and old. A heritage we can use to start and re-start building a tale of Italy that contains the past, present and especially the future.

Because tradition is guardian of the flame, not cult of the ashes: the first to say this was Mahler, who was well acquainted with vanguard!

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