Joaquin's Fiano looks at the past to redesign the future





On September 27th the JQN Piane a Lapìo 2011 was presented in Milan: it's the latest addition of the Joaquin family. By name it's a "Campania Igt Fiano", the result of a project that includes grapes from century old lineages of ungrafted vines of the area of Lapìo.

It's a straw coloured wine with greenish glints that features an intense nose, where it persists with aromas of dried acacia flowers and candied ginger. The flavour is sapid and mineral, with a primordial touch, and it evokes suggestions that will willy-nilly break away from the conventional world of Fiano di Avellino, and from wine in general. They started with a question: how can we talk about terroir if everywhere we look we find selected clones and American rootstock? And this is where the intuition came into play: few people know that Campania is one of the few areas where it is possible to find plants dating back to before the phylloxera, and so primordial expressions without the interferences of rootstock or mass selections: starting from here they decided to recover ancient lineages of ungrafted vines for the production that is then aged in Agerola chestnut wood barrels, which have also been philologically recovered, and that are characterized by their peculiar compactness which is a result of the poor soil fertility on Mount Faito.
The wines are expressive, stable and much more honest from the terroir point of view, if by this we mean the connection between vine, land and man. This might also be why a peculiar company philosophy has naturally asserted itself  stating that it is forbidden to repeat wines over the years, especially if there is a precise project from the beginning, or the right vintage.
So for each vintage, a "dedicated" wine; for each grape harvest, an ad hoc project: and in this sense we can legitimately say that these are unique wines, like one-off projects.


Tags: joaquin / jqn / piane a lapio / fiano / 2011 / agerola / campania /

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