Fornovo. "Vini di Vignaioli 2013": tastings (2/2)


 
the Sgarzon is so good! A Teroldego entirely effective and nerves, quickly shifting between fruit and acidity.
 
Le Coste di Gradoli:
Abboccatello made with Trebbiano grapes: it's nothing more than their Litrozzo in which the fermentation has been halted with a hint of sugar remaining. Ancestral, rustic, reminds one of food and wine stalls in the villages outside Rome and of games of cards under Summer pergolas. Tones of chestnut and humus, an extremely enjoyable palate.
 
 
La Stoppa:
I like Stoppa wines, their capacity to interpret the territory in an original but faithful manner, complex wines made for long ageing. But today I am talking about the Trebbiolo 2012, the most basic of their production, but a perfect gastronomic wine, nervous in its beautiful rustic tone and with a bold palate.
 
Curious and excessive wines, with a jaunty boldness and acetic, above all a sparkling white made with Greco grapes. Tense and fun, with aroma of yellow peaches and then the resinous note of Greco. The palate is quick, with a nice ancient winey tone.
 
 
Arianna's wines are delicious, vibrant and intense, while she is a wonder of nature: for two days she was assaulted by enthusiasts and curios people. Aside from the wines, which we are familiar with, the olive oil was the real discovery, delicious and stretched out, sweet and juicy. Not the usual slightly excessive impetuosity we are used to in Sicilian oils, but elegant and sweet.
 
 
Archaic wines that are moulded by the territory, by the sun and by the wind of the Salento area, above all an Aleatico ancient and ancestral like they used to be, tense and vibrant, delicious: an archaic and simultaneously modern palate.
 
 
There is much talk about the agriculture of islands and this one comes from the Giglio. Ansonaco 2012 is delicious, with an exuberant nose of fruit, medlar, plum: the flavour is tense and flickering. The palate is a chase between sapid and fruit.
 
 
A surprise from the Pyrenees: Inattendu 2012 is a white wine with a nose of impetuous fruit, mature medlar; the palate is fresh, simple and effective, it shifts on a note of green almond, invigorating and fascinating. It lacks a pinch of acidity to become perfect.
 
 
Lamie delle vigne 2008, a Primitivo aged in steel barrels, with a nose of fruit and violet, an intense and crunchy flavour between red fruit and a note of tomato; the acidity is tense and clear, very composed; the tannin is important and pleasantly touchy.
 
 
Clos Fantine:
Faugeres 2011. An impetuous nose of fruit and herbs, the palate is austere and tense, a dark fruit very classic and sapid.
 
 
Boca 2008 has a deep and austere nose, a dark fruit with smoky notes, then a burst of cherry and sour cherry; the palate is rhythmic between small fruits and haemoglobin on a thick and composite tannin.
 
 
Bernard Bellhassen – Domaine Fontedicto:
Promise  2011 has aromas of sweet and alive fruit, then a sweet and mellow flowery note. The palate is cutting, starting with a vigorous but precise tannin, before shifting towards fruit and a faint sweetness that is very nice. The finish is cut by acidity.  
 
 
Vigna del Nove 2006 has a complex and smoked nose, a vigorous but composed tannin, an organic and ancestral tone of roots and gentian: the palate is dark and terse. A Barbera you don't expect: elegant and solid.
 
 
Otin Fiorin 2008 haematic and rhythmic aromas: rose and flowers, the flavour starts with fruit before nimbly steering towards cut grass and flowers. The palate is bold and supported by acidity, a classic Langa.
 
 
Cerasuolo 2012, a punch of crunchy fruit, clean and neat to the nose, then cut grass. The flavour is bloody and dynamic, the palate sapid and clear fruit.
 
 
The Trentino area of Italy is undeservedly the Cinderella of the North and yet this Pinot Noir 09 is delicious, better than the majority of wines from the Alto Adige area. The nose is fresh and intense, with aromas of wild strawberries and small fruits, then a fascinating haematic trail. The flavour is fresh, juicy on notes of blooming meadow, supported by a clear-cut acidity.
 
Igea 06 Barbera, a hot and pleasantly rustic nose, the fruit is compulsive with green grassy notes. The palate is bold and rhythmic starting with officinal herbs, then fruit and a mineral silhouette still only outlined, which will become more defined.
 

 


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