Enologica 2013: good first take... bolognese's edition



Rocked by the train carriage that is taking me home, I think back to these past days. Faces, meetings, glasses, flavour, tastes, emotions, images, laughter, arguments and quarrels.
This is Enologica, the plot of a tale that starting from food reaches discussing our being Italians, the popular novel of our history.
Italy is food and food is the Emilia Romagna Region, so for the transitive relation one could say that Emilia Romagna is Italy!
Food is a real possibility for this country, a vision and a future project. Tourism connected to food and wine generated 6 billion euro alone last year, without taking into account the sector’s direct revenue and the natural synergy with classic tourism.
A recent study of American tour operators has highlighted how food has overtaken art as the main reason pushing people to visit Italy.
From this viewpoint Giorgio Melandri’s choice seems all the more spot-on and modern, almost a warning to all sector operators. In Bologna!
Not in exhibition centres or in modern convention centres, but in the heart of the city, behind Neptune’s shoulders.
Palazzo Re Enzo is one of Italy’s gothic marvels and its imposing hall, under crystal chandeliers and frescoed vaults, was the beating heart of Enologica 2013.
A myriad of Apennine wood stalls, simple and practical, but beautiful in a way that only functionality can mould. A simple graphic design created by Monica Zani – a good illustrator from the Romagna area, who has a poetic and Fellini-like stroke – pointed out the cellars, with a sign that reminded one of Guareschi and smelt of bell towers and good lunches of the past.
Outside the windows, one could admire Piazza Maggiore, the same as ever, with the charm of its porticoes and austere palaces.
The tastings, which took place on the first floor on ancient wood tables the old fashioned way, told the landscape of wine, but without shyness, with a high slant, sometimes very high.
This is the tale of Italian wine, which intersects with that of nature, of territories and of people. It was performed by a first-class squad of professionals.



Then the Caravanserraglio (Caravanserai) where tall and short meet and mix a single story between tradition and thought.
Outside lost in the city, among antique stores and new cathedrals of flavour, thousands of events were taking place, especially the Teatro dei Cuochi (the Chefs’ Theatre).
At Diana, a restaurant with a history that goes back almost a century, we understood the urgency to reconnect the tale of these historic venues, where there is an alternation of families and gastronomic critique, which for too long has forgotten and even ill-treated them.
In the very modern Eataly of the Teatro dei Cuochi, we were intrigued by the idea of Adriatic koine, of a language of flavours and smells that ties all this side of the boot of Italy, which came to an end with an extraordinary Mauro Uliassi, who reminded us of the importance of remembrance and of its interpretation.
Enologica in increasingly a laboratory of language on Italian food, which is to be carefully observed and understood, so we know what Italy’s plot is.
A mixture of vulgarity and class, between bell tower and vision, between modernity and Gozzano.
Sunday lunches and outdoor excursions to the beach, the bath season and cement in wine production might be something we should stop being ashamed of and that on the contrary we should show off with pride.
The pride of someone who starting from the detail can discuss the general, who from the province can look to the metropolis.
A thread connecting popular and cultured, between horror and sublime, where being able to walk in equilibrium is pure material poetry.

Tags: wine tastings / giorgio meandri / bologna / enologica 2013 / italian wine / /

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